Originally constructed in 1920, following massive amounts of deforestation due to extensive logging of the Northern Presidential mountains in the early 1900’s, this route creates a short and direct, yet steep and dauntingly rugged route from the Jefferson-Dartmouth notch.

Stretching from Valley Road (near US Route 2) in the north to Base Station Road, at its southern terminus, this seasonal (gated in winter conditions) dirt and gravel thoroughfare provides vehicular access into the heart of Jefferson Notch, and importantly for this report, the Caps Ridge trailhead. Affording the shortest approach into the heart of the Northern Presidential Mountains, the Caps Ridge Trail is a hiker favorite due to its shorter length and scenic offerings throughout its upper half - once hikers emerge from the treeline and burst into the beautiful alpine zone.

Acquiring its naming due to several ledgy humps of granite (also referred to by some guidebooks as Jefferson’s Knees) along its narrow ridgecrest, the Caps Ridge Trail departs the large trailhead parking area from the HOL (height-of-land) in Jefferson Notch, between Millen Hill and Mount Dartmouth in the west and our main objective, Mount Jefferson, to the east, at a general elevation of 3,008’ - the highest public trailhead in the White Mountains.

*Boardwalk along the lower Caps Ridge Trail*

A standard, wooden hiker kiosk offers a slew of information to help keep hikers of the Caps Ridge Trail safe; from the 10-essentials, Hike Safe card information, to a large topographical map (complete with a “you are here” directive); occasionally, pieces of lost-and-found can be found hanging from this wooden structure. Adjacent, a USFS/AMC trail sign board is found, offering distances to various trail junctions and other places of interest.

Departing the gravel parking area, the trail meanders through a lush forest, often making use of planks as a boardwalk, as to avoid mud and soggy footing early on. However, the Caps Ridge Trail wastes minimal time before its pitch begins to increase. While footing remains rather sturdy, the footbed becomes increasingly rocky - a sort of trench has been formed from decades of foot traffic. Trailside, ferns emerge from a blanket of moss, some of which has begun creeping up some conifers, and occasionally, completely overtaking trailside boulders, giving a real sense of alluring remoteness early into the hike.

*Rocky footing as the Caps Ridge Trail climbs*

As the Caps Ridge Trail begins to pitch, its footing becomes increasingly rocky and rugged, some boulders may even be loose or wobbly from prior foot traffic during shoulder season and in wet conditions. Despite a moderately steep climb within the first mile of this trail, footing remains overall solid along this mild trench of trail. After an ascent of roughly 770' over the initial 0.85-miles, the Caps Ridge Trail opens up, offering the first of many lookouts and grand vistas.

This iconic lookout is often a destination all of its own; from its bare, rocky ledges - most of which are riddled with potholes said to be formed from glacial meltwater - a glimpse of the coming, bouldery climb along The Ridge of Caps can be enjoyed from this lofty perch. Also visible toward the east-southeast is the Sphinx Col, Mount Clay, and the Southern Presidential peaks, as the mighty Mount Washington towers from behind, with its unmistakable slew of radio towers and notorious antennae.

*Presidential views from a granite perch*

Continuing along, the Caps Ridge Trail briefly becomes a mellow stroll through the scrubby, boreal forest, for several rods. At about 1.0-mile into the ascent, The Link Trail appears on the climbers left. Departing northwardly, I had considered this near-level route as an option to form a loop-hike: descending down the Castle Trail and returning via The Link - but, was advised by several hikers that this connector trail is surprisingly rugged or overgrown, often seeing minimal traffic - some familiar with The Link even referred to its course as more of an “emergency/rescue route”.

Bearing right as to continue along the Caps Ridge Trail, soon, trees become shorter and scrappier as the alpine zone draws near; views become frequent as ledges and boulders begin to comprise the trail surface. Becoming true scrambles in many places, hands are utilized for balance and security while ascending and descending these precipitous, ledgy places.

*Mt Jefferson poking up from behind the Ridge of Caps*

Reaching the first Cap at about 1.5-miles, hikers now begin following yellow blazes and rock cairns as to find their direction either up and over, or skirting around granitic bulges, hence the Caps. All the while, the generally rocky summit of Mount Jefferson can be seen - appearing harrowingly distant when the coming landscape is stacked up with several more Caps and rocky outcroppings.

In several instances, it is imperative that hikers unfamiliar with the direction of the Caps Ridge Trail remain diligent to its course - keeping several yellow blazes and rock cairns in view at all times is the best approach, as several herd paths and drainage routes from bursts of rain or spring thaw have created look-alike herd paths, which occasionally drift off the trail and veer into the wooded abyss, southwardly off the narrow ridgecrest.

*Navigating over and around the Caps, the summit draws near*

At 1.75-miles, The Cornice Trail enters from the north; offering stunning lookouts during its course, The Cornice Trail links several trails along the western slopes of Mount Jefferson: from Edmands Col to the Gulfside Trail and Monticello Lawn. Continue straight here to remain on the Caps Ridge Trail, naturally, white-painted USFS/AMC signage accompanies these junctions to aid hikers in finding their desired path and direction.

Beyond this final junction, hikers can expect to find themselves hiking through a regular, shattered rock (frost-action-weathering) style boulderfield, which is synonymous with the higher summits of the Presidential Range (Madison, Adams, Washington, etc). Footing must be intentional, with caution exercised, as some of these massive rocks are instable, wobbly, and slick in wet weather.

*Summit bolt w/ Mt Washington towering behind*

Hikers ascend the final distance of the summit cone in a northeasterly direction, with a brief scramble up small, jagged boulders to reach the ultimate high point. From the summit of Mount Jefferson, at 5,713’ (LiDAR survey), at least one other rock pile can be spotted, generally easterly; while this outcropping appears relatively similar in elevation, a silver bolt can be located on the true summit of Mount Jefferson (Durand Survey?), similarly on the other Northern Presidential peaks.

Around the summit cone of Mount Jefferson, several favorable nooks can be located, where hikers can escape the elements somewhat, find shallow reprieve from the wind, and to rest and refuel before making the return trek back to the Jefferson Notch trailhead, roughly 2,700’ below.

*Millen Hill and the Dartmouth Range from the Ridge of Caps*

While an out-and-back climb of the Caps Ridge Trail is recommended only for those with a relatively moderate amount of experience in the White Mountains; this route offers splendid, sweeping northwesterly, westerly, and southwesterly views while traversing the narrow Ridge of Caps - and outstanding views (on a clear-weather day) from it’s open, summit. A word of caution must be advised for those utilizing this, or any trails in the Presidential Mountain Range - these paths navigate an extremely fragile environment and ecosystem only found in several lofty locations around the Northeast; caution must heeded in staying on trail as to protect the alpine plants and wildlife of these precious mountains.

Please, remember to always practice Leave No Trace principles while exploring this stunning, yet fragile mountain range - and also check various weather sources prior to embarking, such as: Mount Washington Observatory: Higher Summits Forecast, and Mountain-Forecast. As it is well known, weather in these high hills can change extremely rapidly, even on the best, clearest weather days. Happy Climbing!

Overall stats for the day:
4.76-miles
4hr 34minutes
3,002’ elevation gain

Mount Jefferson - 5,714’

Mt Jefferson via Caps Ridge Trail

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