Through the rolling hills of Ernie’s Path, the canopy was aglow with beech budding the shade of perfectly ripe avocado; wrinkled bedrock forms monochromatic waves underfoot, gripping boot tread as one ascends the 1,822’ glacially-shaped wedge; cinnamon and maidenhair ferns unfurl trailside, soon the understory will become a blanket of lush, vibrant virescent mountainside as mosses loftily fill between exposed rocks; a trickle of water flows through a narrow, rocky channel as it works to replenish the vernal ponds and aquafer, hydrating and fueling the thirsty explosion of springtime growth.

*Beginning on the Wright’s Mountain Trail*

Wright’s Mountain has been a local go-to for several years now: snowshoeing, trail running and hiking, meditating and relaxing amongst nature, everywhere one looks they are sure to find an awe-inspiring, picturesque setting, whether or not art and creation is on the mind. Encompassing 507-acres, its 11.5-miles of trails feel much more vast, offering loops and link-ups for excursions and treks of all lengths.

As the Wrights Mountain Trailhead (located on Wrights Mountain Road) is generally the more popular option in which to begin one’s adventure, I began here at an empty parking lot at 7:30am. However, the trailhead parking area on Chase Hollow Road is a personal favorite, as the intimately forested paths begin winding up and along the southeastern flank of Wright’s Mountain right out of the parking area. The newest of the trailhead lots can be found on State Highway 25, providing easier access to the vast trail network during winter months as Chase Hollow is not plowed and accessing the hilly Wrights Mountain Trailhead can often prove treacherous.

*Ernie’s Trail & Wright’s Mtn Trail diverge*

Departing the large gravel lot of the Wrights Mountain Trailhead, atop an old logging road, the path begins a long, gradual ascent through a dense corridor with many large white pines looming nearby. A small welcoming kiosk is first encountered which provides up-to-date trail information, events and brief historical content; a color-coded map is provided as well as a mailbox for hikers to sign-in and leave comments - the other trailheads feature similar offerings.

Just beyond a gate (access for occasional logging vehicles), one of the Town Forest composting toilets can be found, these can also be found near the other trailheads as well. The old road forms a minor trench as it treks southward, hints of bright green beech and other hardwood leaves contrast beautifully with the darker evergreen boughs of hemlock and pine; small patches of bedrock shine through the otherwise soft path of soil and fallen conifer needles.

*The forest reclaims logged areas alongside Ernie’s Trail*

At 0.2-miles the first junction is reached, Appreciation Way splits off toward the right, offering a scenic path in which to experience Wrights Mountain, while generally an alternative descent during my outings, Appreciation Way can be enjoyed in either direction. Continuing straight along the wide, old road becomes increasingly rugged underfoot, exposed bedrock and small boulders comprise occasional small sections of path. In areas, a newer, well-graded footpath meanders alongside a now grassy and grown-in forest road.

Along the now recognized National Recreation Trail, to proceed toward the 1,822’ summit and lookout area, one would continue along the Wright’s Mountain Trail, which veers right at 0.4-miles; continuing straight to join Ernie’s Path makes for a very scenic, moderately longer trek showcasing even more wilderness.

At a newly placed interactive kiosk (describing native bird species) and bench which can be found at the intersection, continuing left along the wide logging road passes several areas which, while beginning to grow back in with ferns and grasses, still display signs of recent trailside logging. Opting to trek Cindy’s Trail was cut-short when the amount of slash from logging and an overgrown trail, combined with a large blowdown blocking the path was encountered, at which point I retraced my steps to continue along the unmistakable Ernie’s Trail.

Soon passing Sylvia’s Trail, which is another lovely alternative route in which to reach the summit. Sylvia’s Trail departs on the right and soon swings clockwise to intersect the Wright’s Mountain Trail, just north of the summit area.

Further south, the Wright’s Mountain Trail also diverges to form a loop; while slightly less of a direct-approach to the summit, the path features a bench overlooking a small vernal pool and meanders over roots and rocks before descending into a shallow gully which feeds into the Devils Den. As the Wright’s Mountain Trail makes a large clockwise swing to ascend the southern ridge, wild blueberries can often be found edging the narrow pathway before entering a beautiful mixed forest of striped maple, oak and various evergreen.

As Ernie’s Trail crests the hillside and begins a gradual descent with thyme-leaved bluets lining trailside, waterbars and recent maintenance projects are passed which work to keep the trail dry and erosion under control. Well-placed rocks offer a step over, avoiding occasional high water - today the tributaries were not flowing despite recent rain. All over Wright’s Mountain, old logging and forest roads can be found, now mostly filled-in with low understory ferns and grasses, their wide corridors can still be distinguished veering off from main paths along the trek.

Before long, a large glacial erratic is encountered on the eastern side of Ernie’s Trail, appearing precarious and ready to tumble down the hillside; the forest transitions to beech and oak before encountering an area of white and red pine nearing the next outlook above Devils Den, where hikers can find yet another bench along their journey. Just behind the grand vista, the J Arthur Trail departs toward the east, making a fine loop over a narrow, rugged path through the mountainside. It becomes apparent that not all of the Wright’s Mountain trails receive the same levels of high traffic, many of the side paths retain their rugged, wooded appearance as if still a minor herd path meandering the hillside. Brightly painted blazes on trees always ensure safe navigation through the trail network, however.

Passing perhaps the largest oak tree remaining on the mountain, while it is missing several branches there is no doubt this behemoth has seen its share of history and changing of the surrounding landscape. Descending along several minor switchbacks, Ernie’s Trail terminates as the Chase Hollow Trail begins; the notorious Devil’s Den can be found to the west while other trails and trailheads can be found eastward.

The pathway to Devil’s Den quickly transitions from soft, loamy soil to increasingly rugged, trekking atop jagged bedrock and large boulders while it makes its way into the heart of a massive ravine. Sheer rock walls rise trailside while the hillside drops away opposite, to a gullied resting place for hundreds of broken off chunks of rock. As the path swings counterclockwise to follow into the ragged ravine, Canada mayflower lines the mossy trailside as lichen and tripe peel off the cliffs in small sheets; jewelweed and harlequin can also be found brightening up the otherwise verdant understory.

At the heart of Devil’s Den can be found the temporary reprieve from which the area received its name: a deep, 2-story cave system can be found by following faded yellow arrows. Formed by the massive, tumbling boulders which sheared off the mountainside, here was the location where the early settler, Benoni Wright had entered, planning to attempt a 40-day fast. While Wright did not achieve his full fasting duration, he soon exited the mountainside in such a haggard state that townspeople believed him to have become possessed by the devil during his cave dwelling.

Today, the area is simply marvelous; ravens can be heard calling as they nest high in the treetops, vultures can be found soaring in and out of the ravine as they ride thermal updrafts on warm days, looking for small prey amidst the forest floor. Several precipitous rocky spots can be located around the rim of Devil’s Den which provides a stunning vantage point to rest or view nature.

*The authors favorite rocky perch in the Devil’s Den*

Retracing steps out of the ravine, the Chase Hollow Trail passes another bench with a stunning, rocky backdrop; the trail passes a small brook which is often home to massive bunches of grey and orange coral mushrooms later in the season. Trickling water, mossy carpets and a dense canopy keep the hillside cool and shaded (albeit buggy in spring) before rejoining an old woods road and ascending a brief hilly section enroute to the next junction.

While the wide path of the old road continues downslope toward Chase Hollow Road, a more scenic route can be had by veering left here, following along the Chase Hollow Trail. A split several rods up the trail offers a “scenic route” which is slightly longer, meandering through a beautiful woodland setting - this used to be signed as the “best trail-in”, while the shorter, south branch of the loop was the “best trail-out”, both are equally enjoyable as they stroll through more hardwoods with copious ferns abounding at foot-level.

To exit the trails at the Chase Hollow trailhead, continue straight, otherwise veer right onto the Commemorative Way trail. Gently rolling atop a highly enjoyable, conifer needle-laden footpath, this trail is just one of the many on Wright’s Mountain which is but a dream for trail runners. In autumn, massive white, yellow and orange amanita mushrooms grow in tight clusters which dot the edge of the pathway, creating an even larger spectrum of color to the already beautiful mountainside.

Reaching a large clearing, the Woods Road cuts through, while continuing straight across and back into the lush forest finds hikers on Nancy’s Trace. Crossing a small, bridged brook, a bench can be found just off-trail before the climbing ensues. Tillotson’s Trek, leading to the southern trailhead on Chase Hollow soon enters. This short trail also guides hikers to Sean’s Trail, a fine loop in remote woods. Climbing atop hardpacked footing through a nice, open hardwood forest, stone steps aid in ascending the steeper sections of mountain slope.

Rolling atop a low ridge, Nancy’s Trail passes brief patches of wetland toward the east as the land falls into a shallow ravine to the west. Eventually meeting back up with the Woods Road from earlier, Rube’s Route departs with a sharp left, now toward the west. A mossy trail initially guides hiker’s downslope through an old corridor now blanketed with leaves. As Rube’s Route makes a southerly swing it passes another benched resting place with a groomed lookout, a nearby sign offers visitors a fact-of-the-day: “Park City, Utah - 2,342 miles”.

While it is unlikely to view Utah from this vantage point, the southwest lookout does offer a stunning view of a rolling, viridescent hillside. A brief descent tracks along the base of the lookout, fallen trees lay entangled like a patch of old blowdown. Joining another old logging road, Rube’s Route proceeds downhill in which to cross a narrow brook atop small boulders; here, the trail has always been moderately overgrown with ferns and grasses since I have been visiting. A slight ascent crests into a large open area which nature works avidly to reclaim. Grasses and low plants fill in the space while young white pine also grows dense - now reaching several feet in height. Numerous hunting tree stands can be found, their ladders and ropes draping down tree trunks.

*Intersection of Rube’s & Wilderness Trails*

As Rube’s Route continues for 0.4-mile further, toward State Highway 25, the Wilderness Trail now exits the landing on the north, beginning along another old forest road. Several other old roads can be found diverging, while the Wilderness Trail is well-blazed with yellow markings. Swinging up along a southwestern ridge, the trail gains a modest 400’ in the first 0.5-mile stretch, the latter-half being more rugged and switch-backing up large steps in the rocky hillside. Cresting at 1,270’, the trail now follows along a ridgetop; rolling gently all the while, the path occasionally becomes difficult to follow and at times buried under fallen leaves, however, yellow blazes can still be found dotting the way.

*Open hardwood ridge of the Wilderness Trail*

Porcupine roam atop and rummage through the dense carpet of duff and can also be spotted climbing trees along the ridge. Entering patches of hemlock, the trail dips off the open hardwood ridge to trek briefly around a band of exposed bedrock before traversing the sidehill - footing is narrow here and often loose. As the trail continues to be blazed yellow, occasional small stone cairns lay trailside which also help guide the way.

*Coniferous patch ascending Wright’s Mountain*

Ascending onto the ridgeline proper, the trail meanders through several small patches of wild blueberries, young oak and beech can be found as well. Large blocks of quartzite pierce through the leaf and moss-blanket just off-trail, appearing like out-of-season chunks of white ice. Upon merging with the Wright’s Mountain Trail, the two coincide enroute to the summit lookout; passing another secluded vista with a well-placed bench and ascending a brief, steep grade with the aid of a thick rope strung between trees.

Over jagged footing the trail finally emerges alongside a large hump of exposed bedrock to the east as the expansive views open westerly, toward the Waits River Valley. A vast panoramic view can be enjoyed from both atop wrinkled bedrock or from inside the open-interior cabin; Looking southward, Mount Ascutney (3,130’) can often be seen through the trees which top Wright’s Mountain as the trailless peaks of Knox (3,086’), Butterfield (3,167’) and Signal (3,360’) Mountains can be spotted, clustered just beyond the cabin toward the northeast.

*Westerly panorama from Wright’s Mountain*

Inside the cabin, photographs of its construction and various trail maintenance projects can be found. Just beyond stands a mountaintop composting toilet, convenient for those who may want to spend the evening or catch sunset from the west-facing ledges.

Up a short ascent from the cabin and lookout area, the Wright’s Mountain Trail crests a long ridge and heads northward; a rocky outcropping on the eastside of the trail offers a short scramble to reach the actual high point of the mountain. In the past, a geocache box had been stored at the peak but yesterday I did not spot anything of interest. At 0.15-miles since departing the cabin, Sylvia’s Trail now merges from the east and another 0.1-mile beyond arrives at the Appreciation Way junction - which has become my favored route in which to descend the mountain.

*Easterly views toward the Benton Range*

Before joining Appreciation Way, across the main trail is a short spur path leading toward yet another bench with a east-facing lookout toward the Benton Range: Mount Moosilauke (4,802’) dominates the panorama, while Black Mountain (2,820’) and Sugarloaf (2,609’) rise pyramidally from the hillside; the Kinsman mountains and the Franconia Range beyond may be visible on a clear-atmosphere day, while several lower peaks of the Hubbard Brook Experiment Forest can be spotted rising between Moosilauke’s southern shoulder and the low, drawn-out ridge of Piermont Mountain (2,717’).

Descending Appreciation Way, the trail quickly encounters another resting spot with a bench overlooking a restricted westerly view beyond a large cracked boulder, very similar to that had from the ledgy summit area. Beyond several tight switchbacks the trail opens up to a pleasant, gradual decline along the northern ridge; evidence of recent trailside logging is becoming well-hidden and gradually reclaimed by the forest. Atop rocky footing, the trail swings briefly into a wooded hemlock patch before strolling back into a hardwood mix, ferns burst to life as they unfurl along the narrow pathway. Several paces atop exposed bedrock brings the trail to merge with the Wright’s Mountain Trail, henceforth 0.2-miles northward, the trailhead in which we began.

Overall stats for the day:
6.26-miles
2hr 56 minutes
1,062’ elevation gain

Wright’s Mountain - 1,822’

Wrights Mountain

Eastern Belknap Mountains

Northville-Placid Trail