I write this from the backseat of my Subaru; cocooned in a sleeping bag and munching bananas, fresh off the trail and spending a night in Maine as I recount an excursion from Maine.

- Saddleback -

The name of an old favorite back in the Adirondacks, I’ve seen that Great Range gem in every season and it never gets old in my opinion. Complete with an alluringly steep climb up an old landslide resulting in some of the finest views one could hope to find anywhere in the Adirondack state park.

However, this is a tale of a different Saddleback; this is the Saddleback of Maine! Turns out this was not even my first choice for this weekend but as limited time and weather windows would allow, as you will read, it was a highly recommended climb. All of my trail research was targeted on the big neighbors in the area, with names like Bigelow, Sugarloaf and Redington (which is an almighty bushwhack of the northeast 4000-footers).

As per my typical planning regime, I began checking weather reports the instant I returned to work on Monday morning. Knowing that mountain weather apps are generally not terrifically accurate so many days out, I just could not resist the temptation to day dream even on this Monday work day.

Weather was looking solid, my focus narrowed to something out of the ordinary. The destination didn’t have to be the steepest trail or even the longest trek imaginable, sometimes I just want the unexpected - I chose an unfamiliar hike on my remaining 4000ft list.

With most of the local White Mountains climbed, it was obvious to me that, for something new, I would be committing to a 4-hour car ride (one way!) to hike any remaining 4000-footers.

Saddleback was the closest of the peaks. I sat there at my laptop with several tabs of google-maps open thinking nearly out loud, “why had I not looked into this by now?”

*Appalachian Trail cairns atop Saddleback Mt; ~4000’*

So, what’s so ‘out-of-the-ordinary’ about this Saddleback place anyhow?

First off, it’s a ski resort. An old ski resort that was between owners and had not been operational in several years but was trying to re-organize for the 2020 season.

The resort itself remains in great condition. I found a proper ghost town vibe upon pulling into the old resort - not a soul to be found, no sounds, just pure silence. Peered into the windows as I passed, the chairs were all up on the tables but everything else has been removed: 110% eerie.

The hiker has several directions to ascend this mountain as well. The Appalachian Trail traverses the summit ridge and continues over to other networks of bumps and rocky outcroppings, the nearest being another 4000-footer summit of Maine, The Horn; a shoulder of the Saddleback ridge.

Returning from my morning jaunt up along the ridge several people (from different groups of hikers) asked where the pesky trail was. In an attempt to be helpful I pointed them to the ski slopes and herd paths around back of the lodge, where my ascent began. “It’s back there, you can’t miss it.. but if you do.. just keep climbing until you can’t climb no more!“

The talus-filled ski slope that made up my trail began as a muddy single track width of boot and trail runner prints quickly sprawled out onto a poorly maintained maintenance access road and got steep, quick!

About 20 minutes of warm up climbing was all it took before the once sprawling fall foliage vistas were completely shrouded in white mist as I ascended into a blanket of ominous cloud cover. But, for those few brief moments I had incredible views, very close to peak foliage out here in Maine! The yellow birch leaves and deep reds mingled with the rusty orange hues, all offset by the spruce and evergreen needles sprinkled throughout just seemed to spread out and unroll like a shag carpet across the countryside.

Nearing the ridge line the winds masked the sounds of thru-hikers who made their beds in one of the shelters just off the crest of the ridge, the scent of their bacon and maple syrup filled the surrounding air. Now, over 4,000 feet, the air was growing more and more tumultuous, whipping the heavy cloud layer all around, whirl-winding that sweet maple syrup right up my nose.

Once out on the ridge line, visibility narrowed to a slim 15-feet in any direction. The whipping wind was alive and in full force now with 40-50mph gusts forcing me to brace each step with my trekking poles, mildly nerve-racking to say the least while trotting down open granite slab with a drop off to the right that disappeared into who-knows-what kind of abyss far below.

I was very pleasantly surprised with my inaugural break-in of my first pair of Altra Lone Peak 4.0s - they seemed to grip the bare rock better than any other shoe I had hiked in. I expected them to give up their hearty traction and send each of my legs flailing in varying directions, I can pleasantly say that the Lone Peaks did stellar on this hike.

It really was not difficult at all to follow the ridge despite being shrouded in a thick undulating cloud layer, the AT was marked very well, and the notorious white blazes appeared to have been recently repainted. There were of course standard alpine zone rock cairns every so often to follow when the snow flies and the visibility is reduced to minimal.

I thoroughly enjoy a hike or scramble where I can employ both arms and legs, Saddleback was definitely a good hike for that! Heading over to The Horn just over a mile away found me on a lovely granite sidewalk that was easily runnable (even when wet!), rocky scrambles, a deceptively thin wrought iron ladder that looked as if I would step through each rung, and boat loads of rocky outcrops that would have made great resting view points had I not been in a cloud.

Once up the last steep pitch to the summit rocks of The Horn at 4041′, I quickly spotted the burnt orange MATC signage surrounded by boulders helping to keep it upright in these obliterating wind gusts. I have grown accustomed to the dark brown signs with yellow text found in the Adirondacks, the rough wood plank signs of the Whites, but the uniqueness of these bright orange trail signs found on Maine mountains still seem so exciting and new to me.

*Ski lifts descending Saddleback Mt; 3600’*

While the open summit of The Horn could probably host 50 hikers comfortably, enough nooks and crannies for each to spread out, I was thankful to have the peak to myself on this gusty day.

After several photos bookended with slamming torrents of wind, my fingers decided that it was time to pack up shop and head back to warmer pastures found in the tree line.

After a run through the col, beginning back up the Saddleback side I was quickly stopped dead in my tracks. Just a brief jaw-dropping moment of sun finally shining through the clouds. Even from up so high, the views to the west began to shine through the cloud that I reluctantly called my ‘home on the ridge’ for this fine morning.

Minutes prior, I could literally see the water droplets that made up this cloud whiz past my face, but now all I saw was a most colorful artists palette of fall foliage below in the valley.

The mind-blowing color shots did not last long and quickly traced my steps and ascended back to the peak of Saddleback. I found myself alone again on this pile of rock. Following some exploration of an old stone shelter that rose several feet off the backside of the peak, I was able to find an old USGS survey marker.

For just a moment I was absorbed into my surroundings, a place where time did not exist. Simply taking in the sights that surround my feet, looking at the colors of the alpine moss, watching grasses sway in the breeze, even birds all around that tried to defy wind speeds – it was all an incredible experience.

Recalling my three and a half hour drive home, I decided to continue on with my trek. I met many families with young hiking enthusiasts making their way up, I wished them all a great day. Most saw me still wrapped up in my Black Diamond wind jacket and eventually asked about the weather up top before departing. It was only then that I admitted how strong and bone-chilling the gusts were, but tried not to discourage anyone, they could decide for themselves how far to go toward the bare summit.

The Altra Lone Peaks make super quick work running down the boulder and mud slopes while heading down to my car, having been thoroughly impressed by them, I could not recall why it took me so long to pick up a pair to rip around the mountainside.

Another hugely successful and enjoyable day; Saddleback along with a traverse of the Horn was numbers 5 and 6 of 4000ft peaks in the beautiful wilderness of Maine.

Overall stats for the day:
2hr 29 minutes (ridge jog)
3,255′ elevation gain

Saddleback Mt – 4120′
Saddleback Horn – 4041′

Saddleback + The Horn

A long day out in Maine

Mt Kancamagus Ridgeline