Whether the ground is covered with a thick carpet of northeast powder, getting ready to spring back to life or, perhaps the foliage is changing and falling to the ground, there is hardly a better place in Vermont to spend time exploring a preserved historical land with vast forested tracts, all from the comfort of the well-graded and smooth surfaced carriage roads which meander through the hilly woodland.

Located in Woodstock, Vermont, there are several locations in which to access the network of trails; I prefer the large trailhead parking lot on Route 12, adjacent to the Billings Farm Museum for its close proximity to downtown shops; while it is located in an energetic area of the small, quaint town, it never comes off as frenetic - a delightful way to begin a stroll amongst 400-year old hemlock.

*Entering the Rockefeller mansion area, trails to the right*

The 20-miles of beautifully crafted carriage roads, which had originally been constructed for the estate to showcase Frederick Billings’ concept of a model farm to friends and the public alike, now provide access to the more narrow and sometimes rugged hiking trails which guests can utilize to make nearly any length of adventure desired, all while basking in natural Vermont wildlife.

In winter, 12-miles of these trails are groomed for the Woodstock Inn & Resort Nordic Center and require a valid day ticket to use. The Historical National Park has trails designated for snowshoeing-only, hiking-only, as well as groomed ski trails - maps are generally located not just at the National Park Forest Center Headquarters but along the trails at most junctions as well.

Despite being part of the National Park system, the network of trails at Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller NHP are free to the public from sunrise to sunset; for information regarding the operating hours of the Visitor Center check here.

Upon departing the large trailhead parking lot, we traverse westerly across Route 12, heading toward the 1805 Mansion and Gardens; carriage roads and hiking paths are located off to the right, along Mountain Road. Be sure to take in the distinguished rows of Norway Spruce, which help to isolate the old Rockefeller estate from the world outside.

First encountered along the network of Carriage Roads is the Forest Center which, during operating hours, contains restrooms as well as a classroom and meeting space. Next down the crushed stone pathway is the old wood barn structure which was built in 1875 and most recently restored in 2008; once the location of forestry operations for the estate, lumber was processed and housed in the adjoining yard.

While a hiker, runner or skier could spend all day exploring the large webwork of trails and hardly see the same path twice - I chose to meander in a westerly direction, to the Pogue for today’s adventure. The Pogue is a beautiful, 14-acre pond which was dredged and dammed in 1880 to provide water for the estate. Now, the Pogue is a unique sight with low-rising hills forming a quasi-amphitheater on three of its sides.

*A wintertime circumnavigation of the heart-shaped Pogue*

Continuing straight down the Mountain Road carriage path will eventually lead to the remote body of water, but don’t forget to double-check the trailside map kiosks to be certain of your location in the vast trail network.

Very shortly into any trek along the carriage or hiking paths of Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park, one forgets about the bustling world outside, quickly becoming emersed in a world of old growth birch, hemlock and brightly illuminated beech leaves. In warmer months, water trickles through low-land drainages which are often surrounded by a carpet of lush, green moss and various fern species; bird calls echo through the hillside as one strains to recognize the sound of anything man-made, for it often cannot be found in these rustic woods.

The 0.7-mile Pogue Lakeside Trail encircles the small body of water; whichever direction one circumnavigates the pond, the views are sure to provide. An open hardwood forest canopy lines the surrounding, bowl-like hillside as wildlife can often be found amidst the calming waters of the Pogue.

Once the scenic loop has been completed, the path can either be retraced back to the starting point or extended by heading south along the Mount Tom Carriage Road Path. Soon, the pathway passes by a south-facing lookout toward West Woodstock with several benches if a sunny rest with a view is desired.

*South-facing view from the Mount Tom Carriage Road*

Continuing on, the path winds past a stand of large red pines before side-hilling Mount Tom. Trailside signs denote the various hiking paths along the small mountain; while both summits have perks of their own - the North Peak is higher, at 1,340’ yet offers minimal views, while the South Peak (further down the carriage path) is shorter, at 1,220’ and features the iconic, illuminated Woodstock Star atop one of its open, scenic ledges.

Trails to both summits afford wonderful snowshoeing opportunities in the winter months and highly enjoyable, somewhat rugged hiking other times. The trail underfoot often has exposed rocks or clusters of fallen hardwood leaves, both of which can become rather slick when wet. Whether on the north or south peak, the respective trails both skirt the outer contour of the peak, avoiding their true high points; a trailside boulder on Mount Tom’s North Peak features a survey benchmark disc embedded in the large stone.

Descending off either summit shows a hillside once fraught with glaciation; large moss-covered boulders fractured off the mountainside by glacial meltwater, stack up trailside along the mountains southern slopes, creating a terrifically unique environment in the National Historic Park.

A series of switchbacks lessen the grade off of the mountaintops; the Faulkner Trail diverges south/southeasterly off the South Peak toward Faulkner Park, while the beautifully scenic Precipice Trail follows the contour around its summit and descends toward the east, eventually convening with the North Peak Trail. The Precipice Trail then bee-lines down the mountainside over very rugged terrain, bare rocks act akin to a staircase down the steep slope.

As the trail cuts into the side of Mount Toms’ eastern ridge, massive craggy rocks loom nearly overhead; old growth trees line the path and tower high into the canopy as the mountainscape tapers into a more habitable grade.

Making our way back to the main grounds of the Mansion and Garden area, we passed by the 1916-built bungalow, which is no longer open to the public but was once a secluded retreat for the daughter of Frederick Billings. Finding a narrow path through the dense woods, we stopped briefly to adore the understory ferns, which had been at one time planted around the estate and were studied by Elizabeth Billings; all along the walk one finds beautifully constructed stone fountains and stone benches in which to laze and escape the heat of summer.

*Azaleas bursting to life with color and fragrance, May 2022*

Although the mountainside and accompanying trail system is what draws me to the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park, a visit is never complete without a stroll through the elegantly crafted gardens which occupy the southern side of the main residential area. Azalea and rhododendron gardens alongside exquisite rock gardens lead to the Belvedere Complex; whose angelic 1870’s architecture houses the bowling alley, garden workshop, greenhouse and provides access to the outdoor swimming pool.

Hummingbirds and bees alike make the garden area thoroughly vibrate with life as an array of colorful flowers, herbs and grasses can be enjoyed and observed in various stages of life; small placards denote plant species and other interesting details.

On most days a brief reprieve can be taken post-hike along the Rockefeller mansion’s veranda, which even generally has a host of Adirondack-style rocking chairs. Following a jaunt around the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller grounds, a final stroll for refreshments or to visit any number of unique Woodstock shops should be taken, many local Vermont stores offer mementos hitherto not found other places.

From ponds to precipices, mansions to mountaintops - the Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historic Park can accommodate any type of outing, any time of the year. Whether you want to get away from bustling city life to trail run a blood-pumping half-marathon or roam just far enough to locate a quiet corner in which to sit in silence; there are enough nooks, crannies and massive old growth trees to embrace every seeker of wild places; always returning more to the visitor than they ask for upon arriving.

*unless otherwise noted, photographs were taken during a late-February stroll

Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller NHP Trails

Stairway to Heaven via AT

Plymouth Mountain