Mount Mansfield via Hell Brook Trail

Advertised as the “shortest, steepest and most technically difficult” route in which to reach the 4,393’ summit of Mount Mansfield, we were immediately intrigued at what this trek might consist of, and the scenic vistas we might encounter along the way - as autumn slowly creeps in to most northeastern locales, especially in the mountainous terrain of northern Vermont.

Hell Brook Trailhead kiosk

With a 6:33am commencement, we parked at a moderate-sized lot 1.1-miles north of the Long Trail crossing of Vermont Route 108 - just beyond the Hell Brook Trail terminus. With a short road walk to reach the trailhead kiosk, we were delighted to find no vehicular traffic on the narrow roadway this early in the morning, as available shoulder space for foot traffic here is minimal.

Immediately, the Hell Brook Trail begins rocky with mostly stable footing as it ascends a low grade to start. Before long, however, the pitch of the trail increases dramatically to scale 2,130’ during the initial mile; it was noted in the 1956 edition of The Long Trail guidebook that this path was the second steepest in the Green Mountains, just behind the Bear Pond Trail which was later abandoned in the 1980’s following a landslide.

Ascending the Hell Brook Trail

Following just north of the West Branch Little River, before long into the hike, cascades and falling water can be heard echoing from the nearby brook - some maps notate a short section of trail which can be followed toward the cascades, but today I could not pick out its path through the steep, rocky, overgrown hillside.

In several instances along the Hell Brook Trail, the trail slabs steeply along exposed bedrock, roots drape themselves as if to offer a foot or hand hold while climbing - just be sure to keep spikes or crampons from puncturing the fragile root systems in winter. All along the shaded ascent, the bedrock remains wet and quite slick, few openings in the canopy offer a chance for the ledges and boulders to dry in the overhead sun; for the most part, this route seems to retain cool moisture well, creating an extremely slick descent. Needless to say, the Hell Brook Trail is much more enjoyable climbing than descending - we trekked both directions during this ascent of Mount Mansfield.

One of the many scrambles along the Hell Brook Trail

Despite being moderately slick, good hand and foot holds appear at each steep scramble, only several instances were we left scratching our heads momentarily until determining a safe route up the exposed ledges. Before long into the climb, the exposed rocks which comprise the Elephants Head, across Smugglers Notch, becomes visible, as if to offer climbers a chance to track their progress up the mountainside.

Following faded blue blazes, the path veers past several blocked off and clearly rerouted sections; occasionally, casual-grade traipses offer up brief reprieves as one hikes atop a fine footpath of rich soil and exposed roots, slicing through a grove of hobblebush and white birch. The Hell Brook Trail swings through a bouldery cave, clambering atop jagged rocks, it is very interesting to envision locations where these colossal blocks had broken away and tumbled from the craggy ceiling above.

Tight scrambles and low ceilings of the Hell Brook Trail

We continued toward the west as the Hell Brook Cut Off was passed, noting where it diverged, we were happy to avoid some of the more treacherous and wet slabs up above as we later made our descent down the steep path from this point. At one steep section, metal rebar rungs had been drilled into the mountainside, offering sturdy hand and foot placements.

Metal rungs along the upper Hell Brook Trail

Nearing the Lake of the Clouds, we found ourselves trekking an eroded trail corridor atop boulders and rocks which was beautifully lined with various mosses, evergreens and miniature mushroom blooms. Crossing a wet, muddy sag in the landscape, we soon reached the junction for the Adam’s Apple Trail, which would then guide us up and over the 4,120’ summit and henceforth Mount Mansfield’s Chin. Glancing back toward Lake of the Clouds, it is possible to discern an old, well-worn path which is now blocked for revegetation - could this be the route of the old Bear Pond Trail?

Beginning up to the summit of the Adam’s Apple

Proceeding southward along the Adam’s Apple Trail, footing continues atop moderate-sized strewn boulders and rocks; before long, Lake of the Clouds, one of Vermont’s highest-elevation lakes, now becomes visible over the stunted trailside conifers. Beyond the small alpine lake, the 3,940’ Bear Head peak is visible northeasterly, while the Bear Claw Ridge tapers northwesterly.

Nearing the high ledges of Adam’s Apple, the wave-like earthen feature of Mount Mansfield becomes visible, with its larger-than-life scale, it appears daunting, rocky and near vertical. As it had been several years since I traipsed across the bare rock summit of Adam’s Apple, it was reassuring to find the Green Mountain Club and their volunteer committee had traced the path with white cord, similarly to the summit of Mount Mansfield itself - to help guide hikers along the bare rocks and off fragile alpine vegetation.

Northward to Lake of the Clouds + Bear Head

As we crested the bare mountaintop, wind picked up, encouraging our return to the low, scrappy protection of coniferous krummholz. In what seemed like mere seconds, we had traversed back into treeline, following a narrow pathway toward the Long Trail - Hell Brook junction. Here, we began following the Long Trail south, toward the summit of Vermont’s highest.

Alanna with the mound of Mt Mansfield

Before long, the grade increased and we were back to climbing Mansfield’s bare rock ledges and boulders. Thankfully, the exposed rock was dry as we navigated the “chimney” section, a steep, narrow, rocky scramble up the mountainside. While there are decent hand and foot placements here, it is always amusing to note just how worn smooth the hard bedrock has become from all the traffic over the years.

Mount Mansfield summit

With several high steps and brief scrambles up the steep path, the grade once again tapers as if to trek along a stone walkway enroute to the 4,393’ mountaintop. Along the way, gorgeous views begin to show themselves all around - north and northeasterly into Canada, east and southeasterly toward Stowe and the White Mountains (if atmospheric haze allows a glimpse!). Even upon gazing straight down, one can bask in bent and twisted layers of once-plastic bedrock as it was morphed into its current state.

Southward, down the Mt Mansfield ridgeline

Almost immediately upon topping out on The Chin, a brightly gold-colored survey benchmark is visible at foot-level, which can prove difficult to spot once the impressive vista - southward along the Mount Mansfield ridgeline - comes into view. Radio towers mark the low-dome of The Nose while Camel’s Hump, Mt Ellen, Mt Abraham and much of the remaining Green Mountains of the south can be identified. To the west, many peaks of the Adirondacks can be picked out; today, unfortunately, the Adirondacks of New York were socked in a thick blanket of lingering cloud, we were thankful for the stunning views which were had from Mount Mansfield this morning.

As the constant, dull winds persisted, we weighted the option of donning jackets and cold-weather gear, but opted to press-on instead. More white cord marked the edge of the Long Trail south as we departed this state high point. From the summit, we traipsed across wooden planks and stretches of bare slabs while enroute to our next diversion - The Profanity Trail.

Departing the ridgeline via The Profanity Trail

The Profanity Trail wasted no time in descending; atop loose boulders and rocky footing, we took in the last of our amazing easterly vistas before entering the protection of the treeline. During the laborious 0.3-miles, The Profanity Trail drops (or gains, depending on direction) 630’ before merging with the Long Trail.

At this point, we took a side jaunt to visit the Taft Shelter, which I had read much about but had yet to pay a visit. While Alanna signed into the shelter’s visitor log book, I envied the craftsmanship of such a building constructed at nearly 3,600’. The compelling story and history of the Taft Lodge is told on the Green Mountain Club’s website, which can be found: Here.

The Taft Lodge

Back on trail, after a quick snack break to discuss our descending route, we opted to attempt the Hell Brook Trail and forego a multi-mile road walk from the ski resort back to our parking lot along the narrow VT Rt 108. Like several other “cut off” trails I’ve explored around the Mansfield area, the Hell Brook Cut Off was no different - sections of well-trodden pathway were interspersed with short lengths of trail which appeared to receive minimal traffic, as if having been only recently constructed.

Descending via the Hell Brook Cut Off

Soft footing welcomed us to the Cut Off path as we side-hilled the Adam’s Apple dome. As if a reward for taking new trails, we basked in a splendid downlook into Smuggler’s Notch and of the cliff bands adorning the notch, just beyond, many of the remaining peaks of the Long Trail north could be picked out. Being the middle of September, leaves had begun to lose their chlorophyllic-hue. We were both wearily awaiting a brilliant foliage burst, given the adverse weather and heavy rainfall the northeast had received over the summer months.

Swinging around the eastern slope of Adam’s Apple, the Hell Brook Cut Off looses a modest 340’ during its 0.6-mile course in which to intersect the ascending Hell Brook Trail. The Cut Off trail varied from soft, earthen footing to short scrambles, even a brief section cutting through a broken mountainscape, more rock fall and caves were a treat before reaching the Hell Brook Trail once again.

Hell Brook Cut Off

Once back on the Hell Brook Trail proper, we now passed several ascending parties as we slowly and carefully placed feet and hands to cautiously lower ourselves down the steep, slabby mountainside. Working to step only on dry patches of bedrock, we remarked about how treacherous the descent was, and likely would only use this route for ascending, in the future.

After we had lowered ourselves down the metal rebar section, we knew the grade would decrease slightly and footing would be more agreeable - and much less slick underfoot. As the faint trickle of falling water grew into an audible trailside cascade, we knew the highway would be soon approaching.

Northward into Smuggler’s Notch

Looking at my watch, neither of us could believe we had not even trekked a full four-miles, supposing the 3,000-feet of climbing more than made up for the mediocre distance from Smuggler’s Notch to today’s two peaks along the Mount Mansfield ridgeline. For such a short distance hiked, we certainly felt as if we had received a full day of highly satisfying hiking through the Green Mountains and cannot wait to explore more in this section of Vermont.

Overall stats for the day:
3.65-miles
4hr 33 minutes
3,061’ elevation gain

  • Mt Mansfield, Adams Apple - 4,120’

  • Mt Mansfield, The Chin - 4,393’

Atop Mount Mansfield

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